Sarah Thursfield is a well-known costumier in the British re-enactment circuit; she makes excellent costumes, patterns and embroidery from any period, and gives talks and demonstrations as well. She has kindly allowed me to reprint some of her work on medieval costumes, which will appear in this and future FLAMES. She can be reached at Ashgrove, Overton Road, St. Martins, OSWESTRY, Shropshire SY1 I 3DG, tele (0691) 778019.

Part 3: Worked Eyelets

In earlier times eyelets were used for "trussing" hose to doublets and attaching separate sleeves. In the 1640's they are chiefly used to fasten corsets and tight bodices which must be boned to give the right effect. Worked through two or more layers of firm fabric, or light fabric with a firm (woven) interfacing. For concealed eyelets work them on a doubled strip of linen or cotton and then attach this strip to the bodice lining, a little way from the edge.

The commonest mistake is to cut the hole, instead of forcing the threads apart with a stiletto. Stilettos used to be standard dressmakers' equipment: they can be found in junk shops. The next best tool is a marline spike or "thing-for-taking-stones-out-or-horses'-hooves" often found on penknives. Failing this use a closed pair of scissors or a sharp pencil point.

First, plan your eyelets:

Work from the right side: Make a circle of stab stitching round the eyelet position; finish by bringing the needle up just outside the circle. Now push the stiletto into the centre of the circle and start forcing it through, working from both sides alternately, until the hole is almost as big as the outline stitching. Now put the needle down through the hole and back out a little further round, whipping over the edge of the hole and the outline stitching. Pull each stitch tightly as you go round; the stitches should just touch as they pass through the hole and radiate out a little. To finish off, make one or two small stab stitches from back to front, then "lose" the end in the stitching on the back. You should have a firm slightly raised ring.

The best thread is a firm cotton or linen thread, 40 gauge or thicker. Synthetic threads, fray too much for hand sewing.

(Editor's note: I have found that embroidery floss is excellent for making eyelets, as it flattens out quite wide, thus requiring fewer stitches.)